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Ambergris Ltd.
Howard Road
Eaton Socon
Cambridgeshire PE19 3ET, England
United Kingdom
Ambergris Publications
770 Beatrice St.
Brentwood, CA 94513
TEL.: 510-634-1497
Kissling, M. ed, Ambergris, Cincinnati, OH: Ambergris Foundation, Box 29919, Cincinnati, OH 45229-0919
A biennial journal of essays, art and fiction.
Oral
Applications of Ambergris as an Aromatic Beverage Flavoring -
by Ted (Doc) Haigh [ drcocktail@bigfoot.com ]
Prior to the turn of the century, ambergris was used by bartenders, liquor rectifiers, and makers of cordials & syrups as an ingredient in some of their products. This is quite notable because in contrast to its other uses, these are the only instances recorded in which the ambergris was actually orally consumed in beverage use.
Ambergris: A cloudy dark secretion of the sperm whale used by the perfume industry. Because it becomes fragrant when heated, some bartenders used it in hot punches and mixed drinks. It is expensive and potent; recipes calling for this ingredient have been omitted.
The definition in the latter work is virtually identical, adding the term "morbid" to read "A cloudy dark morbid secretion......" Neither of these books give any specifics, nor do they mention its use in the manufacture of fortified wines, liquors, and cordials, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic.
Of the eight 19th century manuals referenced chronologically below, six give contemporary recipes with ambergris as an ingredient, one cites a purported 14th century historical recipe including it, and three discourse shortly on its use. It should be noted, the tone of all of these works (1853-1895) suggest a commonness of use that precluded any in depth exposition within their respective trades. Nonetheless, the three references to ambergris in the 1898 edition of The Scientific American Cyclopedia of Receipts, Notes and Queries (p. 20, ambergris defined; p. 202, ambergris essence formula; and p. 347, ambergris oil formula) indicate no awareness of its beverage uses. No 20th century references to such beverage uses (excepting the two referenced above) have been located.
This substance is found floating on the sea, or thrown by the waves upon the shores or various countries, particularly in the southern hemisphere; is now generally believed to be produced in the intestines of the spermaceti whale. It is found in roundish or amorphous shaped pieces, usually small, but sometimes of considerable magnitude; and masses have been found weighing from 50 to 200 pounds. These pieces are often composed of concentric layers; they are of various colors, usually grey, with brownish yellow and white streaks, often dark brown or blackish on the external surface. They are opaque, lighter than water, and of a consistence like that of wax, and have a peculiar aromatic agreeable order, and are almost tasteless, and soften with the warmth of the hand. Ambergris is insoluble in water, but will dissolve in hot alcohol.Ambergris is used as a perfume for liquors. It is never used alone, always being combined with other aromatics. The usual form of adding it to spirit, is to rub it well with sugar, which acts by minutely separating the particles of ambergris. Ambergris should be used in very small quantities, when used as a flavoring ingredient, as the odor would be easy of detection. In light-bodied liquors, one grain will often suffice. Its different applications will be found in the different formulas throughout the work.
The perfumes best suited to this purpose, are acetic and nitric ether, oil of wintergreen, oil of lemon, essence of ambergris, oil of mace and creosote.
"Rectified whiskey, thirty gallons: grains of paradise tincture one and a half gallons; catechu, five ounces; water, nine gallons; suphuric acid, one ounce; oil of lemon, one drachm, dissolved in four ounces of acetic ether; rub up half a grain of ambergris in an ounce of sugar, and mix the whole. This whiskey should have a slight tinge of red in it from sanders wood. Supposing the spirit to be perfectly transparent, half a pint each of tincture of red sanders and burnt sugar would answer for coloring.
21 ounces of oil of orange.
21 ounces of oil of bergamot.
2-5/8 ounces of oil of neroly.
6-9/16 ounces of oil of lavender.
3-15/16 ounces of oil of rosemary.
63 drops of oil of roses.
126 drops of oil of cloves.
200 drops of essence of amber.
Dissolve in 10 gallons of alcohol, 95 per cent.
13 drops of oil of roses.
57 drops of essence of amber.
Dissolved in 3 gallons of alcohol, 95 per cent.,
and add 20 lbs. of sugar dissolved
in 5-3/4 gallons of water; color rose.
Among the most prominent (of cups) ranks the medicated composition called Hypocras also stiled (sic) "Ypocras for Lords," for the making of which various recipes are to be found, one of which we will quote:--Take of Aqua vitae (brandy)... 5 oz.
Pepper... 2 oz.
Ginger... 2 oz.
Cloves... 2 oz.
Grains of Paradise... 2 oz.
Ambergris... 5 grs.
Musk... 2 grs.Infuse these for twenty-four hours, then put a pound of sugar to a quart of red wine or cider, and drop three or four drops of the infusion into it, and it will make it taste richly.' This compound was usually given at marriage festivals, when it was introduced at the commencement of the banquet, served hot; for it is said to be of so comforting and generous a nature that the stomach would be at once put into good temper to enjoy the meats provided.
This substance, which is found floating on the sea, or thrown upon the shores of various countries, is now generally believed to be produced in the intestines of the spermaceti whale, and perhaps in those of some other fish. From the high price of the genuine ambergris, it is very frequently adulterated. When quite pure and of the best quality it is nearly wholly soluble in hot alcohol and ether, and yields about 85 (percent) of the odorous principle (ambreine). It is also easily punctured with a heated needle, and on withdrawing it not only should the odor be immediately evolved, but the needle should come out clean, without anything adhering to it. Ambergris is insoluble in water, but readily dissolves in hot alcohol. It is used in very small quantities; one ounce will suffice for 1,000 gallons of brandy. It combines its odor with any other perfume, and forms by each addition a new aroma, greatly exhalting the odor of other substances. As a flavor, ambergris should never be used alone. The following makes a good aroma:--Digest for 15 days at a moderate heat 1 oz. of ambergris in 10 oz. spirit of rose, stir several times a day and filter in a covered funnel, pass over the residue 8 oz. spirit 50 (%). Before digesting the above ingredients, be careful and dilute your ambergris in a heated mortar, with alcohol. Ambergris is highly prized for its odor, which is peculiar, exceedingly diffusive, and perceptible in small quantities. A grain or two, when rubbed down with sugar and added to a hogshead of claret, is very perceptible in the wine, and gives it a bouquet, by some considered a great improvement.
The following mixture is a fine flavor, but must be used in small quantities:--Digest for 15 days at a strong heat,
1 oz. musk,
4 drachms vanilla,
2 drachms ambergris, in
12 oz. spirit 95 (%).Stir several times each day, filter in a covered funnel, and pass over the residue the same quantity of spirits 50 (%). This is essence of musk. So diffusive is this aroma that the quantity given in the above recipe would be sufficient to flavor 2,000 gallons brandy.
Forty gallons proof spirits, three ounces powdered catechu, one gallon extract of bitter almonds, four gallons extract of raisins, one-half ounce ambergris dissolved in two ounces warm alcohol, two gallons strained honey dissolved in one gallon water, and two ounces acetic ether; color a light brown.
Delight of the Mandarins--To 1 drachm aniseed add seeds of musk, or ambrette, 2 drachms, safflower 1/2 drachm; bruise these ingredients well together; digest in 1 quart pure spirits of wine; strain in ten days, and add 1 quart of syrup.
Excellent Negus.1 bottle of sherry (or port), 2-1/2 pints of water, juice of 1 lemon, a little of the peel rubbed off on sugar; grated nutmeg, and sugar to taste; add one drop essence of ambergris, or 10 drops of vanilla; all to be made and drunk warm.
Ambergris.--Extremely diffusive. It is most conveniently used in the form of plain essence. One grain will give a fine "bouquet" to a hogshead of claret.
Wedding Punch.Take 1/2 pint of pineapple juice.
1 pint of lemon juice.
1 pint of lemon syrup.
1 pint of claret or port wine.
1/2 pound of sugar.
1/2 pint of boiling water.
6 grains of vanilla.
1 grain of ambergris.
1 pint of strong brandy.Rub the vanilla and ambergris with the sugar in the brandy thoroughly; let it stand in a corked bottle for a few hours, shaking occasionally. Then add the lemon juice, pineapple juice and wine; filter through flannel, and lastly add the syrup.
It is hoped that the above referenced quotations will shed some light on an utterly obscure use of ambergris to the end of a better understanding of its various properties and the historic value [to] place upon it.
Chocolat Ambré:
Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin IN: Larousse Gastronomique: The Encyclopedia of Food, Wine and Cooking by Prosper Montagné with the collaboration of Dr. Gottschalk, 1961 English Ed.
"Chocolate is one of the most efficient restoratives. All of those who have to work when they might be sleeping, men of wit who feel temporarily deprived of their intellectual powers, those who find the weather oppressive, time dragging, the atmosphere depressing; those who are tormented by some preoccupation which deprives them of the liberty of thought; let all such men imbibe a half-litre of chocolat ambré, using 60 to 72 grains of amber per half-kilo, and they will be amazed. The grain, an old-fashioned measure, equals about the twentieth part of a gram, and we might add, ambre gris is meant, a greyish substance which exhales a smell analogous to musk, and not yellow amber, which is an entirely different thing. Such chocolate no longer exists.In Méditation VI, Brillat-Savarin refers to chocolat ambré as 'the chocolate of the afflicted': 'I knew that Marshal Richelieu, of glorious memory, constantly chewed ambergris lozenges: as for myself, when I get one of those days when the weight of age makes itself felt - a painful thought - or when one feels oppressed by an unknown force, I add a knob of ambergris the size of a bean, pounded with sugar, to a strong cup of chocolate, and I always find my condition improving marvellously. The burden of life becomes lighter, thought flows with ease and I do not suffer from insomnia, which would have been the invariable result of a cup of coffee taken for the same purpose'. Brillat-Savarin also praises the powers of ambergris in his Magistères Restaurants."
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